A study of the 1620s:

A while back I was commissioned to create a suit based on Hendricks Avercamp’s painting Kolf (Kolven) Players on the Ice-1625.

The suit depicted was of blue and green shot silk paired with wool or possibly silk hose. Stylistic elements of the 1620s are apparent all over. The tighter sleeve and straight waist can be seen in extant garments such as the green shot silk doublet held in the Germanisches National Museum, the high buttoned sleeves can be found on the crimson 1620 doublet in the Victoria Albert museum.

This suit had so many fun details that I highlighted with both blue and gold silk thread. The doublet itself has 35 buttons (10 on each sleeves and 15 down the front) and 14 brass hook-and-eyes. The buttons are made on a wooden core and wrapped with silk thread. The hose are made of a medium weight wool broadcloth with the pockets and binding details in the shot silk from the doublet, and lined with linen.

This project was a tremendous study of the period details, construction, and style of the 1620s. The pattern and construction inside and out was largely based on period methods found in extant garments. I’m so thankful I had the opportunity to make this suit, I will miss having it in the studio.

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Early 17th century mandilion

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Gambeson