1560s doublet

I have recently finished this project based around the 1562 doublet of Don Garzia De’ Medici in POF3.

My goal for the project was to use the cut of the original and it’s details to create a general shape for the mid/later 16th century.

Using the cut and details from the original, it features 15 buttons and 50 shoulder tabs, a single piece back with grown on collar. The front has a subtle curve and drops about 3” from the waist. The sleeve is cut in a single piece. The shoulder seams on the back are quite steep thus brining the front shoulder seam around to the back. The shoulder seams themselves on the original are about 2.5”

This brings the shoulder far into the sleeve head. I did not make mine quite so extreme but shrunk the shoulder seam in order to achieve a similar look.

All these features and more were drawn from the original and scaled to size.

I also added a padded lining in order to support the shape of the garment.

The center front has a flap over the button facing that adds padding behind the front when closed.

I used 3” wool batting pad stitched directly to the lining worked from the front.

Partially machine stitched the doublet was hand finished in silk and linen thread.

Overall this became a shockingly lightweight and shapely garment. I’m quite pleased with this one and can’t wait to work on the next padded garment.